Back to the story – on the road to Boumalne Dades
It took a long time to plan this trip to Morocco, yet I overlooked many little details. Like the fact that we’d be driving Morocco’s three mountain ranges. Between Marrakech and Boumalne Dades, we had to tackle the High Atlas. This mountain range reaches a height of about 14,000 feet, but we traveled over the Tizi’n’Tichka Pass where the summit is approximately 7,000 feet.
One of the first things we saw outside of Marrakech was storks! Lots of them flying. Storks nest on top of minarets, but it must be unusual to see many at a time because other cars were stopped to watch.
We drove through palmeries (A palmerie is a place where there are many palm trees, a source of water, and the land under the palm trees is cultivated with different crops.)
and rolling hills
that soon gave way to barren mountains.
There was something eerily beautiful about this bleak stony mountain pass. At the lower elevations we passed abandoned Kasbahs and the occasional house.
Yet even when an area looks desolate, a person will pop up – tending sheep, harvesting bamboo, perhaps gathering plants or wood.
Berbers populate the mountains and a productive side business for them is selling fossils. Apparently southern Morocco is a treasure trove of fossils. We stopped at one stand and after a long while a woman came walking up a steep path. She spoke not a word of anything we spoke, not even Arabic because Berber is a separate language. We bought a dish and some fossils and I’m not sure she could even count the money. Everything in her little store was so dusty that it seemed customers were few and far between. In several places we stayed, we were the first guests since Christmas, so she was probably not expecting any business.
We could even have stopped for the pause that refreshes.
Our car didn’t seem to be sliding into gear very well, the brakes squeaked, and we were mildly worried, but it took us over the pass and down into the Draa Valley. Most people stop for the night in Ouarzazate. It’s not much of a town as far as tourism goes, but it’s growing quickly because a huge movie-making industry is in full growth mode. There’s a big studio, Atlas Studios, one of the biggest in the world, and we drove by back lots with Kasbahs and other types of buildings. The Bourne Identity is one of many movies that have been made there.
Being us, we pushed ourselves to the limit. I figured if we could get to Boumalne Dades we could spend two nights there instead of one in Ouarzazate, then packing up to have only one in Boumalne Dades. It’s much easier to be two nights in one place. As a result we had one of the very long days that were ahead of us. Luckily the road system is excellent and the signage is clear. I had printed out Google maps for everything, which turned out to be a colossal waste of time, as the roads had no names posted and highways were not marked by their numbers. In Morocco, as in France and Italy, roads are indicated by where they lead, not what number they are, and it is usually in a roundabout when you find out if you’re still on the right track.
The Draa Valley is known for growing roses, and each year there is a huge rose festival. Rose soaps, lotions and other rose products are sold all over this area. Also in the valley is the incredible Road of 1,000 Kasbahs. I had forgotten about that road but as we passed abandoned Kasbahs, one after the other, I remembered what we were supposed to be seeing. This road is the former caravan route from the Sahara to Marrakech. Although we didn’t get out and explore any (having done so in the past), it made the road quite exciting.
We did stop at the famous Kasbah Ait Benhaddou and took a few photos. Ait Benhaddou is really a ksar (see commentary on politics) and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site. Many movies have been filmed there including Gladiator and Lawrence of Arabia.
It was a glorious day – lots of driving, yes, but that’s the only way to see the territory sometimes, and see it we did. The sky was gorgeous and the air was clear.
Next: Boumalne Dades and the gorges.














































































































